Adding another machine to the shop…..

I do a lot of work on antiques and custom projects, so a lot of times I need to either produce or reproduce parts made of plastic. My go to technique has always been casting resins, but many times they don’t have the ‘feel’ of plastic parts even if they look the part. Sometimes there just is nothing like an injected plastic part.

I started work on a David Gingery style home made plastic injector a couple years ago, but I was never happy with the way the ram was designed. I purchased a nice electronic PID temp controller for the project, and temp control was never an issue, but there were enough other issues with it that I never put it into use.

Last week I saw this pop up on ebay…..

Hmmmm, a $2500-3000 injection unit that had been torn open and no one knew if it was working. The seller was asking a price that would put it on my doorstep for around $200. After looking at the pics, I figured that the ram and chamber were were professional made, the lever linkages would have proper geometry, there was a neat little filler for the plastic feed, and as a bonus there was a mold hold down clamp. Those were all things missing in my home made unit.  If the only thing wrong with it is the temp control, then this would be a good purchase so I bought it.

It showed up on my doorstep a couple days ago and I didn’t waste any time tearing it down to see what I had received for my money.

I stripped the heat guards off of it to see what was left under the covers. Turns out that nothing in the heater and injection parts had been touched, things are looking positive!

Here is all the temp wiring as I received it. Everything looks good, I couldn’t see anything obvious wrong with it. I did notice that it is an older type mechanical temp control which are prone to temperature fluctuations, I decided to replace it with my digital PID controller. The data plate on the back said it’s a 220V unit, I will rebuild it as 110v since I will be rewiring everything anyway.

During the tear down to get to the heating cartridges I noticed a few things that the professional unit had that the home brew didn’t, like this  bevel on the ram to make feeding pellets easier.

Another lucky bit were the heating cartridges used in the machine. They wired two 110v heaters in series to make a 220v unit. I could just rewire them parallel to make the 110v unit if they were still working. I decided to test them since I had them out of the machine. I put them on a large steel plate as a heat sink, wired them to my digital controller, and tested the system I wanted to install on the bench.

Everything worked. The heaters got hot, and the controller turned them on and off. The next thing to do was modify the heating chamber to install the temp sensor that feed information back to the temp controller.

In the upper center of the picture is the heating chamber and heat cartridges, in the middle is the temp sensor I need to install. I chose to drill out and tap the small hole towards the bottom of the heating chamber where the original heat probe was located.

Hole drilled and tapped. Temp sensor installed. Time to reassemble.

Reassembled with the new parts in it. I hadn’t put the heat shroud back on yet since I wanted to do a test of everything. The test went well, I brought it up to 131’C which is a good temp to begin melting polypropylene plastic for injection.

Since the digital sensor will let me regulate all the way down to room temperature I can melt several different materials for injection molding, so another use for this machine will be injection of casting wax into molds. This will let me make precise investment molds for metal casting.

A new table project

A few years back I picked up a couple of old treadle sewing machine bases. I think it’s time to start a project with one. My friend who is starting a blog (i think, lol) over at ThisRusticSoul.com should love this idea. They both need some love and attention with the usual various broken brackets and rust issues. One needs a lot more work to restore than the other, so that is the one I will start with ;)-

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By the way, those of you who have known me probably recognize the garage (shop) in the pics. It feels soooooo gooood to be finally working out there again and making stuff. Maybe my slump into inactivity is finally over. So, there is the treadle I plan on making into a little side table.  Lets take a look at it problems, I’ll show the fixes in follow up posts.

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The first and most prominent issue is the wheel broken off of the bottom corner. These treadle bases have little wheels in the corners of the base and this one was abused and the whole wheel and bracket is missing so it doesn’t sit flat. I’m gonna have to build a whole new bracket assembly and wheel to make this right. Time to order a chunk of mild steel.

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There is a small break on the back casting that holds the sides upright. You can see the break where I mis-aligned the break just under the bolt tab. This should be a good candidate for brazing the joint, basically like soldering it back together with another metal. I havent brazed cast iron on treadles yet, so I’m curious to see how good or bad the quality of iron is in these castings. Once again, I’ll post later with the fix.

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Looks like I have a lot of age and dust to clean up. I can’t wait to see this stuff all cleaned and refreshed without all the crud burying the surfaces. In the meantime, lets start the work on the top of this table. I want an old look to the top, which means I can’t just leave it as a plain flat top. I want oak for the look, since a lot of oak was used around the turn of the last century, and I kinda want an old ‘school desk’ look. So, lets get started.

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Here we have 3 nice planks of 3/4″ thick oak. I spent a little time looking at grain and coloration when I went to get the wood. It has a nice open pattern and the coloration is a decent red in most of it. Now I need to fasten them together to form a top.

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Three strips of oak to tie them together. The outside strips fit just inside the sides of the treadle, making a good snug fit. It left some marks on the oak as I did trial fits to make sure the runners were where I wanted them . I glued the runners before doing the final tightening on the screws, so it should all stay nice and solid.

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Now it’s time to flip it back over and knock the rough spots down and make the top surface nice. There are slight variations in the wood surfaces where they meet, so I want them to blend smoothly and take out any small imperfections in the boards at the same time. Once thats done it time to add some ‘charm’ to the top.

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To add charm, I’m going to use some more oak, glue, and a brad nailer. I want to run a small rail around three of the sides like I have seen on many old jewlers benches and other work tops. I like the idea because it keeps small things from falling off the table, contains small spills, and overall looks better than just slapping a plank on top of a treadle and proclaiming it a table.

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I cant just slap on a couple pieces of wood and call it done either, so over to the bandsaw I go. I want the outside corners of the table to be rounded off nicely. So I rough cut the shape with the bandsaw and then go over to the belt sander to finish it off. One both sides are done I can put them on.

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Now we are getting somewhere…. just in time for me to stop. I was hungry and the temp/humidity was getting to my comfy point so I quit there for the day.